Două minute de aplauze: Hermès / Toamnă ’14

When describing his fall collection for Hermès, Christophe Lemaire kept using the word wild. Which only goes to show you how deeply entrenched in the Hermès culture he is. He defines wild as tone-on-tone printed silk daytime pajamas with a toffee-colored fur coat thrown on top. Others might call it elegant, rich, classic, indulgent, or discreet. But regardless of what term you apply, it simply is this: exactly what you want from Hermès. It’s luxe. (Emily Holt, Vogue)

After the show tonight, Lemaire mentioned the Russian steppes, the ancient East-West trading route known as the Silk Road, and Persian carpets as reference points. It was easy to see the carpets in his dense, rich prints, and a Mongolian horsewoman might recognize some of the designer’s proportions. The coat in shaggy goat was as wild as the wind. Lemaire offered a tunic in paper-light chiffon crocodile, pinned at the back, casually falling open from a single closure at the back of the neck. Such ease, combined with the utter luxury of the material, defines Hermès. (Tim Blanks,



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